Food, Home and Style

At the End of Your Robe: Subtle Secrets

Stylist Julie Greene offers expert advice on looking fierce in a financial crisis.

It’s been said many times, many ways—it’s all in the details. You put thought into the layout of your resume, and wouldn’t send it out with a typo. Maybe you pair your wine carefully with your food. Consider applying the same principles to the way you dress.

Seemingly small things can create harmony in your look and add a subtle—but very real—polish. They show the world that you are thorough and always on the ball. During a time of uncertainty, that is the perfect message to be sending out.

Here are eight surprising concepts that will create balance and give your look a little lift, without spending big bucks on a personal stylist. The best part? Most are just using what nature gave you.

The Space in Your Face
Choosing prints can be a tricky task, but a helpful guide for print size is the arrangement of your facial features. The more space you have around them, the more space you should have in the prints you wear; the closer your features are to each other the tighter your print should be.

Body Silhouette
Apart from your basic shape, which I talked about in a previous column, think about whether your body’s contour lines are more straight and angled or curved and moulded. Chose fabrics and garments that echo those qualities.

Balance Points
This can be a little tricky, but for now just remember these two things when it comes to your upper body. A neckline or collar should be at least as wide as the widest part of your face, and necklaces and collars should fall at your first balance point. To determine your balance point, measure your face from your hairline to your chin (keeping bangs in mind) then take that distance from your chin down to your chest. That’s the ideal spot to draw attention.

Lines in Your Face
Not your hard-earned wrinkles, but the direction and lines of your eyes, nose, mouth and eyebrows. Notice if these features are more straight than curved or if they tend to move in a horizontal, diagonal or vertical direction. To create a sense of harmony, repeat this in your garment details—especially around your face with your necklines, collars and lapels.

Body Proportions
Ever heard someone say they are long- or short-waisted? This is a big factor in flattering your body with clothes. You can optically lengthen a short waist by lowering the line where your shirts meet your pants (low riders are great for you) or bypassing the waist all together. To shorten a long waist, do the reverse with higher waisted bottoms (think Mischa Barton, not Steve Urkel). Helpful tip: Belt placement is also a great way to adjust this line in your clothing.

Color Temperature
Color can often be confusing, not to mention expensive when you buy something that isn’t flattering. It helps to understand if you have cool or warm undertones to your skin tone. Hold up gold and silver swatches to your face. If gold looks better, you have a warm temperature; pick colors in the red, orange and yellow families. If silver makes you shine, go for cooler shades like blues, greens and violets.

Facial Contrast
Another secret to creating visual harmony is to match the level of contrast in your clothing to that in your face. What does that mean? There are three levels of contrast between your hair, skin and eyes. High contrast means you have fair skin and dark hair and eyes. Low contrast means that all three have the same general value—say, olive skin, brown hair and hazel eyes. Medium contrast means you fall somewhere in the middle. Black and white combinations look great on high contrast people but will overpower those with low contrast. On the other hand, monochromatic looks go perfectly with a low contrast face.

Textural Qualities
The surface quality of your skin and hair are great indictors of what fabrics will look best on you. If you’re lucky enough to have flawless skin then choose fluid, smooth fabrics. Have curly wild hair? Chunky knits and textured tops will balance out your mane.

Add a bunch of little things up and you could end up with a big payoff.

Julie Greene is an independent fashion stylist, wardrobe consultant and writer. She lives in New York City. Have a style question? Send it to us.

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