Food, Home and Style

Redux: Fashion Takes a Turn

Looking back at the Great Depression to see the path ahead.

Is the Recession the final blow to SATC excess?

Flappers of the late 1920s were the Carries and Samanthas of their day: bold, sassy, and fond of flaunting fabulous frocks. They stepped out in sequined sheaths, pricy handbags tucked under their arms. They sported make-up, smoked cigarettes, and bared limbs. Trading petticoats for scanty panties, they shopped for sequined dancing shoes to replace sensible lace-up boots.

But the fashion orgy didn’t last. When the stock market plummeted, hemlines dropped with it. Reckless spending was out; thrift was in. By the time war arrived in 1939, European designers were turning out simple, sturdy clothes made to last. High fashion hewed to classic shapes, and neatly-tailored daytime suits made serious statements. Mass production made ready-to-wear clothing cheaper and available in a wider range of styles.

Fashion is cyclical, and more recent patterns also follow our cultural mood swings. In the late 1980s, street fashion was the rage in New York. Young women rummaged through thrift stores to assemble the ragtag look of their idol, Madonna. But by the late ’90s, grit had given way to glam. Carrie personified the shift from funky-downtown-chick to label-conscious princess. The fab four of SATC strutted their way through Manhattan in designer dresses and over-the-top confections. Theirs were the faces that launched a thousand maxed-out credit cards.

9/11 cast the first pall over fin de siecle shopping, but it was short-lived. The Prez told us to keep moving the merch, and who were we to argue? But as the years passed, more of us began to avert our gaze from too much eye-candy. The Devil Wears Prada reflected a growing animus towards fashion dictators and their slaves. After all, the nerdy heroine triumphs when she turns her back on Balenciaga for more serious pursuits.

The Recession is the final blow to SATC excess. Designers are turning to a more mature aesthetic, pressured to offer clothes at a wider range of price points. On Jan. 11, the New York Times Style Section reported a new interest in calf-length hemlines and structured silhouettes, noting that cheaper textiles and more seasonless looks have already made their appearance on New York runways. Reports on Style.com have named “Depression Chic” as the #1 designer trend for 2009. Faded Sack Dress, anyone? Some designers are trying to revive flapper styles, but the tailored styles of the ’30s’ and ’40s may be more appealing to women re-entering the job market. That doesn’t mean there’s no room for fun: mishmashed ’80s styles are making a comeback, giving women permission to raid the rummage sales once again. Glorious Grecian goddess gowns recall the glory days of Depression- Era Hollywood, when catching a flick was about the only entertainment people could afford.

As Fashion Week kicks off, designers will be focused on frugal fashions. Hopefully we’ll be seeing clothes that can make us feel comfortable and confident; powerful and pretty. The bold, put-together look of the new First Lady is most certainly an inspiration. Her athletic look radiates health and encourages us to celebrate a more natural female form. In tough times, women can’t afford to look fragile and undernourished. We’re in the mood to look not only as strong as we are, but as smart, too. Perhaps a new Intellectual Chic is on the horizon, a look that takes cues from the brainy women we’re currently blessed to have as role models.

Shoes that aren’t instruments of torture would be nice, too.

Tags: fashion, Great Depression, Redux